Saturday, April 06, 2019

Pacific sailing on the Strikhedonia part II



 During my life I have read thousands of books.  They have taken me to thousands of different lives and worlds. From fantasy to reality. They reside in my soul to make up a large part of who I am.  Tonight will be my first night crossing on the Pacific ocean on Strikhedonia. Our destination is Isla Isabel.

   I woke to hearing the anchor being hauled up.  It was 8:30 PM and Chris was getting read to start our night crossing.  We had sailed only 10 miles before anchoring on the south side of Mazatlan at Isla de la Piedra or Stone Island to rest up in preparation of sailing through the night.  The beach was lit up with colorful lights from the bars on shore. Looking out to sea I could see two very large tankers that were anchored and waiting to come into port. Chris put in the coordinates and we headed out between Stone Island and the tankers. I  was amazed at the size of the tankers and wondered who those people were who were aboard.  Chris said they were probably of Asian origins. A life at sea...I've wondered what that would be like.
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  The night was dark without the moon.  We left the tankers and lights of Mazatlan behind. In the dark of night I saw we had company.  A few birds had decided to night shadow us.  I would see them flicker through our dim running lights. The further out we went the darker the night became. The lights of Mazatlan a distant memory. The stars were brilliant with no land interruption. I was on my first three hour shift by myself with Chris sleeping just inside the saloon if I needed help. My job was to watch for lights of other boats and keep us on course. So the night begins.
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   There are no words to describe the feeling of sailing a boat by yourself in the middle of the night.  When I was a child I read the quote "If you have a good imagination you can never be bored." It was my first mantra.  My mind raced with the words from thousands of adventures I have read and ancient dreaming of sailors past.  Realization came to me on how the sailors knew where they were from the stars. I naturally oriented myself to the stars and the position of the boat and mast. I could tell by how far the mast strayed from the three stars that made up Orion's Belt if we had drifted a bit off course. Just as on land we orient ourselves to the terrain and buildings such your mind makes the jump to the stars and horizons and shades of light.
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   The swells were still large and coming at us from behind.  Strikhedonia was built for sailing open ocean in any weather and this was her element.  I settled in and just called it surfing and enjoyed the ride. I would first watch on the open ocean side of the boat and look out towards Hawaii. The sky endless and the stars unique. In my mind state the present place of time could be thousands of years ago or in the future.   I let my imagination run wild.  I felt my ancestors through me who had sailed the Atlantic when they immigrated to America. Imagining them on the schooners of their time making the crossing.  Of all the adventures in life I've had this felt the most natural and in tune with my soul. When you touch water you touch every bit of our planet at once no matter where you are. When you put your hand in a stream you are connected to every bit of land that stream touches all the way to the sea.  When you touch the oceans you connect to every continent on earth. The pull to explore is strong. To see what is around the next bend of the river or the next horizon. It has always been hard for me to resist this pull.  Incidentally I feel it when I am on the interstates...this road if I follow will take me to Oregon, or Maine. 

  My job of looking for the lights of other boats I took seriously. I spotted a horizontal line of light on the shore side of the boat. As I watched it seemed to get bigger. I asked Chris what the light was and it was only the half moon coming up out of the ocean. Such an optical illusion.  Of course then the whole world changed and the light from the moon glittered on the waves. Chris took over and it was my turn for three hours sleep in the saloon.
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   Your first sunrise in the middle of the ocean you can only have once.  The sky was clear and it was beautiful.  Our destination arrival time was noon so we had the whole morning to eat breakfast and just enjoy the time. I spotted something off in the distance and alerted Chris to a possible boat. He took his binoculars and announced it was the Pinnacles.  Good eye he said. The Pinnacles are probably my favorite rock formation now to date. They are on the eastern side of Isla Isabel. Two large rock formations that from certain angles appear to be a dragon in the sea.  Fascinated with them I watched as the two rocks changed as our perspective of them changed. I saw what I thought was a sea blowhole and a second later Chris yelled whales from his side of the boat!  We had whales on both sides of the boat.  What I thought was a sea stack spouting water against the Pinnacles was a whale blowing!

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   Our original plan was to anchor in behind the Pinnacles but we were still exposed to the swells so we sailed to the south side of the island and anchored in a cove with cliffs covered in hundreds of Frigates and Booby's.
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  The overnight crossing to Isla Isabel was one of the most magical nights of my life. My description here pales in what it actually was to me. When your internal library is crammed with adventures read, experienced and lived combines with a mind that likes to dream, sailing into the night was fertile ground for magic. I don't think I can find the words to fully describe it  because it's something you need to prepare in life for and let your soul experience for yourself.  You will.   Next up is the Isla of Booby's, Frigates, and Iguanas galore!

Tuesday, February 12, 2019

Pacific Sailing on the Strikhedonia





 My friend Chris sent me an email asking if I would like to join him on his sail boat this winter for a week or two cruise along the Mexican coast.  Oh wow!  Yes!  I have never sailed before and this would be a chance of a lifetime to be able to do this trip.  We meshed our schedules and came up with one week from Mazatlan to Puerto Vallarta.  January 26 to February 2nd.

  I was up early and drove up to my sons house to drop my car off.  He wasn't home so I used an Uber. My first Uber ride.  They were there within 5 minutes. The airport was a breeze leaving me with lots of waiting time for my flight. The flight was a breeze until we descended to Mazatlan.  My seat partner nearly vomited on me.  I moved extremely fast and she made it to the bathroom.  Whew!

  I landed in Mexico!  My first visit to this country.  It seems a popular T-shirt design was "Welcome to Mazatlan.  The fun side of the wall!"  Yeah.  The wall is kind of a big joke in Mexico.   Customs went extremely fast. My shuttle was waiting and I was dropped off at Marina De Mazatlan.

   Chris came and met me by the road and walked me down to the Marina.  My first sight of Strikhedonia took my breath away!  Photos do not do it justice.  Just floating at dock it looked fast and agile. Just beautiful! Chris showed me my berth and I unpacked.  I had just a short time before we went to meet a couple of Chris's friends at Casa de Maria.  It is owned by a couple of Yankees that came to Mexico and just stayed because they loved it. Food was excellent and it was good conversation about sailing.  I didn't know anything much at that point so I just listened and learned whatever I could.  Back at the boat a band played on shore. It was very cool to be in Mexico and drift off to sleep listening to a mariachi band.



  Sunday.  I was up early.  Chris had a mechanic coming to look at getting some work done on the swim deck of his boat.  The man said 9AM but it's pretty laid back and his assistant came after 10.  Chris made plans to have the work done on his way back and we prepared to leave dockage. The route for the day was just 10 miles from the northern side of Mazatlan to a bay on the south side of town.  Just enough so Chris could show me how to sail the boat.



  The channel out to open water was constricted by a dredge that shouldn't have been working on Sunday.  As luck would have it a water taxi was on the side and Chris asked him to contact the dredge.  They gave us the all clear and we picked our way between the dredge equipment. Then we were out in the open water!

   The rollers were quite large but not breaking.  I was thrilled at how the Strikhedonia handled the waves.  Chris explained to me the navigation and auto pilot. How to keep on course.  The first landmark we passed was Isla de Pajaros. Island of birds. One side of the Island was completely covered in white bird dropping.  It made for a stunning sight if you didn't think much about it. Next was Reserva Ecologica Islas de Mazatlan.  Then we turned into a protected bay, Isla de la Piedra or Stone Island, for our anchorage. A band played on shore all afternoon.  The plan was to just eat and rest,  We were leaving at 9PM for an overnight crossing to Isla Isabel.  Our ETA would be close to noon the next day.  Three hour shifts sailing the Pacific through the night. Excited?  Damn right I was!